21 April 2006

The Oracle of Delphi

Day 3 of the 4 day tour, and a pretty cool one at that. We spent the night at the modern town of Delphi, nestled on the side of precipitous cliffs. Quite heady stuff, and enough to leave one feeling very vertiginous.

From here we travelled to ancient Delphi, where the ruins of the famous Temple of Apollo were uncovered under the locals' houses (since removed). There was a crack in the earth here, which leaked vapours from the centre of the world (probably poisonous). The oracle (always a woman) would inhale the vapours before entering into a trance, whereby she would start talking in tongues. Her mutterings were interpreted by a seer (always a man), who spun them into useless epigrams. These statements of the future could be read as either positive or negative, and therefore, Apollo could never be said to have made an incorrect fortune. (Alexander the Great wasn't impressed by his ambiguous fortune, until he threatened violence and then the oracle announced that he was "unbeatable".)

Nowadays it's all completely ruined, and all that remains is the usual building footprints covered in wildflowers (including poppies!), with occasional standing columns. Here there was the aforementioned temple, but also treasuries, a theatre, a stadium and gymnasium, and another temple to Athena.

In the afternoon we visited a workshop where they handmake Byzantine icons - medieval-style paintings on wood, depicting either individuals (Jesus, Saints etc) or biblical scenes. We bought one of St George slaying the dragon (which is about as secular as it gets here).

By the way, Greek television is really weird. We watched some kind of Greek Idol meets Big Brother %P

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