The "City of London" is a geographically small city within Greater London, whose boundaries have remained almost constant since the Middle Ages. Due to size, it is also known as "The Square Mile", and is today the home of the United Kingdom's financial services industry. Over 340,000 employees descend during the day, but only some 10,000 people (including us!) live here. It is known as the richest square mile in the world (not including us!).
Leftover battlements from the recent G20 protests:
This area - that contained within the defensive perimeter wall built by the Roman in the 2nd century - is our new home, and has a fascinating and varied history. Sites of archaeological and historical importance sit forgotten beside towers of glass and steel - a fascinating mix! We try to go exploring each weekend, and keep discovering lots of interesting things. Here are some of our discoveries...
St Paul's Cathedral
Not exactly a well-kept secret, but we're still blown away by the fact this enormous Cathedral is our next-door neighbour. Oddly enough, it's somewhat buried behind a couple of city blocks, and it's hard to get a decent view of the thing, unless you stand in the middle of Ludgate Street. In any other city, those blocks would have been bulldozed to give this landmark the space it deserves - but this is London!
It's actually quite expensive to visit, so we haven't done the full tour yet. However, we did pop in one Sunday when it was free for a brief look around. And we bought a doorstop in the shape of a bull from the gift shop. Yes, that's totally random!
After the Great Fire destroyed Old St Paul's, it was rebuilt from a design by Christopher Wren, and was completed in 1708. It has 17 bells, including "Great Paul" (the largest bell in the British Isles, at 16½ tons). We hear these bells every quarter hour, and on Sunday mornings (especially during during sleep-in time), pealing for about 20 minutes at a time before and after every service. Oh dear.
Smithfield Market
A centuries-old meat market, this used to be a broad grassy space known as Smooth Field, just outside the London Wall. Now the site of a beautiful Victorian covered market, painted in gaudy colours, its best days appear to be behind it, and its future uncertain.
In a grotesque example of synchronicity, this slaughterhouse area was also the main site for the public execution of heretics and dissidents in London (and also where currency forgers were boiled in oil). Famous dead include Wat Tyler (leader of the Peasants' Revolt) and Scotsman William Wallace.
The Great Fire of London
In 1666, a fire broke out at the bakery of Thomas Farriner on Pudding Lane and swept quickly through the city due to bungled handling by the Mayor. Eventually halted by a fire break from large-scale demolitions, the fire gutted the medieval City of London inside the old Roman City Wall, rendering 70,000 homeless, and consuming 13,200 houses, 87 parish churches, St. Paul's Cathedral, and most of the buildings of the City authorities.
"The Monument", a 61m high tower (311 steps, but who was counting - phew!) designed by Christopher Wren and Robert Hooke, and topped by a golden orb, was erected near Pudding Lane.
In 1668 accusations against the Catholics were added to the Monument:
Here by permission of heaven, hell broke loose upon this Protestant city.....the most dreadful Burning of this City; begun and carried on by the treachery and malice of the Popish faction...Popish frenzy which wrought such horrors, is not yet quenched...
The fire lead to rampant racism, and mobs ran wild in the streets killing anyone with a foreign accent. The inscription was since removed, and was formally recognised that the "Papists" had nothing to do with the fire. Another abortive theory, though of a more amusing nature, was that the fire was God's punishment against the gluttony of Londoners. Afterall, the fire began in a bakery, on Pudding Lane, and was stopped at Pye Corner. There is a statue of a chubby boy here, with an admonition against over-eating.
Interestingly, the fire put an end to the Great Plague epidemic of 1665, by destroying so much unsanitary housing. Given the minuscule death toll (only 6 confirmed), the fire was probably one of the luckiest things to happen to England!
The Temple of Mithras
The "London Mithraeum" is a 3rd century Roman temple dedicated to Mithras - a deity popular among Roman soldiers. It was discovered during rebuilding work in 1954, and in the ruins were found fine Italian marble statues, coarser locally-made clay figurines, and other artefacts. The temple originally stood on the east bank of the now covered-over river Walbrook, but the whole site has since been moved down the road to Queen Victoria Street. The remains of the temple foundations have been reassembled for public display - apparently so that the public can either (i) ignore the ruins completely, or (ii) throw their rubbish all over it.
The London Stone
Possibly the most important artefact in London, this stone was the marker from which the Romans measured all distances in Britannia. Mythically, it is said to be from an altar built by Brutus of Troy, or perhaps the stone from which Arthur drew Excalibur, but in history it has been recognised as the symbolic authority and heart of the City of London. Instead of holding pride of place in the British Museum, the stone is woefully set into a wall on Cannon Street where it is choked by car fumes and resolutely ignored by people heading to and from work. The building is now due to be demolished. Maybe they'll just toss it into the Thames next?
The Barbican Estate
Built after WWII to repair the damage of the war and provide housing, this is a vast labyrinth residential estate, with 13 terrace blocks, a lake, the Barbican Centre (an arts, drama and business venue), public library, schools, and the Museum of London. Originally hugely unpopular, due to its concrete Brutalist architecture, it is now a sought after place to live, and a Grade II protected site.
We really enjoyed walking around the Babylonian ruins, connected by elevated pedestrian networks and cul de sacs, before popping into the museum to view the exhibition on the Great Fire.
