Tuesday, 15 September
Tried to go to a little chapel on the coast, but the Ministry of Defence were busy doing live firing exercises from helicopters (!), so we detoured around some lily ponds instead, then had a cream tea while fighting off wasps, and watching the 'copters. Lazed on the beach afterwards, then drove back to Swansea. Not much doing, killed time, then had a long train ride back home.
21 September 2009
South Wales - Pembrokeshire - Day 4
Monday, 14 September
Drove to St Davids to see the Cathedral and remains of the Bishops Palace. The Cathedral is one of the nicest that we've seen, with a unique wooden roof, carved like stalactites, that gives the interior a wonderful smell, and makes it feel a lot warmer than the stone. Saw some old tombs with statues of knights on them, resting their feet on lions, and visited the little treasury which had some exellent old croziers (bishops' staffs). A lot of the goodies had been 'retrieved' from the bishops' tombs, which seems a little invasive to me!
The ruined palace was quite a contrast, and makes one imagine what it would look like if it had survived like its neighbour. I bought a book on archaeology from the National Trust shop, then we went to an exotic looking deli for some baguettes. They weren't quite up to much, unfortunately, but I came away with a Welsh real ale for later. Still, at least we got to munch our lunch in the sun again.
That was about it for the sun, though, so we wound our way onwards under a gloomy outlook. Passed through Fishguard, site of the last invasion of England and where Under Milkwood was filmed, and on to Cardigan. Zipped through there too, and turned off to a promising Iron Age fort, which has had working replicas rebuilt on site. That was very illuminating, a quite a bit like Asterix's village. I'd have been keen to experience a banquet in one of the huts, but wouldn't have been so keen to stay the night...
Drove to St Davids to see the Cathedral and remains of the Bishops Palace. The Cathedral is one of the nicest that we've seen, with a unique wooden roof, carved like stalactites, that gives the interior a wonderful smell, and makes it feel a lot warmer than the stone. Saw some old tombs with statues of knights on them, resting their feet on lions, and visited the little treasury which had some exellent old croziers (bishops' staffs). A lot of the goodies had been 'retrieved' from the bishops' tombs, which seems a little invasive to me!
The ruined palace was quite a contrast, and makes one imagine what it would look like if it had survived like its neighbour. I bought a book on archaeology from the National Trust shop, then we went to an exotic looking deli for some baguettes. They weren't quite up to much, unfortunately, but I came away with a Welsh real ale for later. Still, at least we got to munch our lunch in the sun again.
That was about it for the sun, though, so we wound our way onwards under a gloomy outlook. Passed through Fishguard, site of the last invasion of England and where Under Milkwood was filmed, and on to Cardigan. Zipped through there too, and turned off to a promising Iron Age fort, which has had working replicas rebuilt on site. That was very illuminating, a quite a bit like Asterix's village. I'd have been keen to experience a banquet in one of the huts, but wouldn't have been so keen to stay the night...
South Wales - Pembrokeshire - Day 3
Sunday, 13 September
Started the day with a little sleep in, and then a visit to the local Bishop's Palace at Lamphey. We've seen so many ruins now, we're connoisseurs! But I'm always struck by the sad beauty of these sites - all that history, vanished into nothingness, leaving nothing but unusal half-formed structures in the wild, against green grass and blue sky.
Poppoed down to our local beach again to do the walk around the cliffs from Barafundle Bay to Broad Haven South, armed with a packed lunch. We passed some more beaches with real sand, some dramatic cliffs (including some off-putting subsidence), and even some game folk scaling the cliffs. We also tried to feed some wild looking ponies and pregnant mares (no luck) and some beautiful big gulls (much success).
Returned home to read in the sun and (in my case) drink beer.
Started the day with a little sleep in, and then a visit to the local Bishop's Palace at Lamphey. We've seen so many ruins now, we're connoisseurs! But I'm always struck by the sad beauty of these sites - all that history, vanished into nothingness, leaving nothing but unusal half-formed structures in the wild, against green grass and blue sky.
Poppoed down to our local beach again to do the walk around the cliffs from Barafundle Bay to Broad Haven South, armed with a packed lunch. We passed some more beaches with real sand, some dramatic cliffs (including some off-putting subsidence), and even some game folk scaling the cliffs. We also tried to feed some wild looking ponies and pregnant mares (no luck) and some beautiful big gulls (much success).
Returned home to read in the sun and (in my case) drink beer.
South Wales - Pembrokeshire - Day 2
Saturday, 12 September
A long meandering drive out to the Marloes Heritage Coast, where we had hoped to do a boat ride to see the puffin colony on Skomer Island. Alas the whole lot of them had already migrated to the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. But we made do with the fur seal colonies (including pups!) and the pod of dolphins that came to say hello.
We also spent several hours walking all over the headlands in the sun, thrilling ourselves with peeks over the craggy cliffs into the turquoise sea below. We even ate a picic lunch overlooking some seals sunbathing, flopping about, having little tiffs and even suckling their young. They're a pretty low key bunch, really, but utterly mesmerising. Overheard an amusing conversation from our fellow visitors:
"Where is he? By the rocks?" (It's a rocky beach.)
And:
"See that wiggly one?"
"Which one?"
"The one that's not moving."
Left and took our sun-kissed selves to Pembroke Castle, a magnificent grass courtyard surrounded by towering... towers, where Henry VII was born. Lots of nice photos of the ruins and textured old stone walls.
A long meandering drive out to the Marloes Heritage Coast, where we had hoped to do a boat ride to see the puffin colony on Skomer Island. Alas the whole lot of them had already migrated to the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. But we made do with the fur seal colonies (including pups!) and the pod of dolphins that came to say hello.
We also spent several hours walking all over the headlands in the sun, thrilling ourselves with peeks over the craggy cliffs into the turquoise sea below. We even ate a picic lunch overlooking some seals sunbathing, flopping about, having little tiffs and even suckling their young. They're a pretty low key bunch, really, but utterly mesmerising. Overheard an amusing conversation from our fellow visitors:
"Where is he? By the rocks?" (It's a rocky beach.)
And:
"See that wiggly one?"
"Which one?"
"The one that's not moving."
Left and took our sun-kissed selves to Pembroke Castle, a magnificent grass courtyard surrounded by towering... towers, where Henry VII was born. Lots of nice photos of the ruins and textured old stone walls.
South Wales - Pembrokeshire - Day 1
Friday, 11 September
Bus to Paddington, then train to Swansea. Picked up our car and zipped off to the coast to a gorgeous little resort town called Tenby. It had wonderful sandy beaches (yes, real sand!), quaint little streets, and a tower on a large hill overlooking the bays. The weather was lovely and sunny, and we just ejoyed ourselves walking around and taking photos of everything. Among the interesting sights was an enormous Coast Guard rescue boat, plus a tiny little chapel right by the beach, which had an altar decorated with hanging lobsters.
Next stop, Manorbier Castle. Quite an interesting castle, but let down by the mouldering mannequins on display throughout. Bought food supplies in Pembroke, then found our cottage, which was part of a larger estate. I jumped the back fence and walked around the neighbouring farm, which was full of abandoned buildings and was quite interesting. After disturbing a rabbit, I returned to the cottage, then we jumped in the car and went to our local beach for a nice stroll.
Bus to Paddington, then train to Swansea. Picked up our car and zipped off to the coast to a gorgeous little resort town called Tenby. It had wonderful sandy beaches (yes, real sand!), quaint little streets, and a tower on a large hill overlooking the bays. The weather was lovely and sunny, and we just ejoyed ourselves walking around and taking photos of everything. Among the interesting sights was an enormous Coast Guard rescue boat, plus a tiny little chapel right by the beach, which had an altar decorated with hanging lobsters.
Next stop, Manorbier Castle. Quite an interesting castle, but let down by the mouldering mannequins on display throughout. Bought food supplies in Pembroke, then found our cottage, which was part of a larger estate. I jumped the back fence and walked around the neighbouring farm, which was full of abandoned buildings and was quite interesting. After disturbing a rabbit, I returned to the cottage, then we jumped in the car and went to our local beach for a nice stroll.
20 September 2009
Hadrian's Wall and the Lake District - Day 8
Thursday, 3 September
Another lousy day. Rose late, stayed in for lunch, then drove all the way around the coast to Muncaster Castle. A bit on the pricey side, but we really enjoyed the visit. The castle itself had a fascinating audioguide narrated descendants of the Pennington family, pus a famously haunted room (though I found it rather pleasant).
There is an owl conservation project at the castle, and we were in time to see the feeding. Girls with buckets of dead chicks and baby rats placed them on perches in each cage, and the owls would swallow them whole or tear at them with vicious beaks. They even had one enormous owl capable of hunting young deer!
We also saw a heron-feeding session, which was made more interesting by the buzzards who join in, and try to make the herons drop their food by pretending to attack them. We then parked the car in Ravenglass and took a short walk to the remains of a Roman bath house. The grounds were flooded again, which makes them look more magnificent. I also spotted a brace of rabbits.
Had a nice dinner at the Block Cock Inn in Broughton.
Hadrian's Wall and the Lake District - Day 7
Wednesday, 2 September
Got up early to avoid a local power cut and zipped up to Hill Top, Beatrix Potter's cottage. The garden and interiors were very pretty, and were used by Beatrix in many scenes in her books. We bought a slew of crap from the shop too - cups, books and magnets.
Next we went to another National Trust property, but they had erratic admission hours, and it was raining again, so we pulled a long haul aound Derwent Water and up to Keswick to see a special museum with the cars from various films. The owner clearly hates children, and the whole affair was rather depressing, even though it was great collection (Batmobile, the time-travelling DeLorean, Kitt, Chitty Chitty Bang Bang etc...).
On the way out of town we stopped at the Castlerigg Stone Circle, then went to William Wordworth's home at Rydal Mount (by Rydal Water). Amazingly, it was already late afternoon and we were wet and tired, so popped down to Lake Coniston for a cup of tea and a scone. The cafe was named after the K& Bluebird, and we were able to read some newspaper clippings about the discovery and retrieval of the wreckage.
Hadrian's Wall and the Lake District - Day 6
Tuesday, 1 September
The weather was briefly fine this morning, so we sped off around Coniston Water to try for a walk in Grizedale Forest. Alas the clouds had already closed the sky, so we carried on toward Lake Windermere.
Dropped into Stott Park Bobbin Mill, which didn't sound like much, but was actually fascinating. Effectively a series of belt-driven lathes and wood shaping machinery, the mill used to make 'bobbins', ie. the spools for thread, right up until the 1970s - without modernisation. The phrase "knocking off" is derived from the belt's off switch, ie. physically knocking the belt off one drive shaft into a neutral space.
Further on at Lakeside, we went to the Aquarium of the Lakes, a kind of Like District version of Kelly Tarlton's. I had a good laugh watching the ducks - they look so funy underwater! Plus we also saw otters and marmosets.
Went for a walk, got rained on, and got lost in Fell Fort County Park, then drove to a beautiful architectural estate called Blackwell, designed in a magnificent and harmonious arts and crafts (similar to art nouveau) style.
Avoiding Windermere, we took a long route through the countryside, via Crook, Underbarrow and Brigsteer, to Sizergh Castle. Another privately owned family estate with heavy dark wooden panelling throughout. There was a rather splendid room for the monarch's regional representative with carved panels and sculptured ceiling, plus grand ponds and pleasant gardens.
Returned home in some devout rain, and had a easy night in the cottage.
Hadrian's Wall and the Lake District - Day 5
Monday, 31 August
We intended to get up early and go to Beatrix Potter's farm at Hill Top, but we were a bit sloww off the mark again. So after some strawberries and cereal for breakfast, we drove to Hawkshead to see the Beatrix Potter Gallery. Housed in her husband's solicitor's office, it had a nice little collection of original watercolours - including several from Travis family favourite, Squirrel Nutkin.
Not much else to see in town, so popped up to Hill Top - but it was teeming, so we drove around Coniston Water to John Ruskin's estate, Brantwood. A grand old building crammed with the usual trappings of a Renaissance man, shells, fossils, plants etc. Walked up into the hill behind the house, for a pleasant bush walk, and to eat our lunch (Quorn escalope sandwiches) in a delightful fern gully with a view of the lake.
It was still raining, so we went to the Ruskin museum in Coniston. This also had some interesting local history, including some of the remains of the K7 Bluebird jetboat, which had crashed in the lake at 300mph, while trying to break the water speed record, and killing its occupant.
Completed a Ruskin trifecta by visiting his grave, then had a quick pint to shelter from a momentary downpour, and stopped to say hello to the ducks at the lakeside. Back to the cottage to hide as the sky fell apart once more...
Hadrian's Wall and the Lake District - Day 4
Sunday, 30 August
Woke up in our little cottage, after a super quiet night. We were slow to get moving, but then struck south. The weather was very patchy, so we stayed in the car until Cartmel. Visited the Priory, a lovely church still very much in use, and wandered through the village. Saw the old Priory Gatehouse, and visited a shop to buy some of the famous Cartmel Toffee Pudding for later.
Next we doubled back and down the Furness peninsula to see the ruins of the old Abbey. Built in a beautiful red stone, and with splendid grounds sprawling over and beside a little stream. An achingly melancholy site.
Ate a packed lunch in the car, then set off around the coast for Ravenglass, but the rai set in and we lost heart - getting halfway, before returning to Broughton for a coffee/tea break, and then home to the cottage for a siesta.
Read a book, worked out some plans for the week, and watched the rain through the window.
Hadrian's Wall and the Lake District - Day 3
Saturday, 29 August
Got up, had a nice shower and a good Northumberland breakfast. Drove north to Hadrian's Wall, and then in parallel to the West, stopping wherever we saw an extant section of wall that interested us (most of it is gone or not visible).
Gave Chester's Fort a miss, stopping instead at the Temple of Mithras, which was exquisite. It had been partially flooded by recent rains, and looked beautifully haunted with the mosaic floor and piles underwater, surrounded by silence and cows. Next step, Housestead's Fort, where we joined the National Trust. The remains are far up a hill, so it entailed a big walk straight up the side. Very interesting, lots of well-preserved foundations over a large site, with superb views down at the uppity northern barbarians (the Scots, that is). Best of all was the near-perfect latrine!
Made a quick stop to look at Steel Ring hilltop, then pulled out the stops to explore Walltown, a long section of standing wall snaking up and down a steep hill range, ending in a quarry. Supremely beautiful! Now very tired and hungry, we drove through Haltwhistle (it considers itself the centre of Britain, but its an eyesore) on the way to Lanercost Priory. We ate lunch in a little cafe, both having salads as a change from the heavy northern pub grub. The Priory had very interesting ruins, not at the scale of some of the others we've seen, but with some nice carvings and interesting features (including a boardgame incised in a window ledge, and a mason marking up his day's tally on the wall).
We were press-ganged into joining English Heritage, I bought some fudge, and we saw the Pre-Raphaelite stained glass windows in the chapel (by William Morris). Popped into Carlisle for groceries, then wound our way down through Cumbria to our cottage by Coniston.
Hadrian's Wall and the Lake District - Day 2
Friday, 28 August
Got up and had a bath (no shower!) and breakfast before returning to the Bowes Museum. It is an impressive French-style building, in many ways too grand for the English countryside. I wasn't quite as impressed with the collection inside, though it is no doubt magnificent to lovers of porcelain. Highlights were a special exhibition of items from classic British children's television (an original Sooty and Sweep, Bagpuss and Basil Brush), some nice Canalettos, and a mechanical silver swan. We bought a fragrant lemon soap and some potential wedding invitation cards in the shop.
Leaving Bowes, we struck north, avoiding the A roads and driving across the beautiful heather-haloed plains of the Northern Pennines. We particularly enjoyed the black-faced sheep with their long tails, wandering freely (including over the roads) and curiously unmoved by the traffic. We stopped for lunch in a little town called Blanchland, site of a former abbey. Then onward to Hexham, and visited the gaol (the first purpose-built prison in England) and abbey (built with repurposed stones from the Roman camp at Corbridge).
After driving through more lovely countryside (spotted a grouse, or some-such bird), we found our way to the remains at Corbridge. Not a lot to see, but there was an excellent audioguide that made sense of the foundations and brought the place to life in the imagination. This was very near the town of Corbridge itself, where we were staying. We had a nice walk through the little town, across the bridge and alongside the River Tyne, where we found the remains of the old Roman bridge that led to the camp. Stopped for a pint of ale on our return, then had dinner and went to bed. Followed by a rough night's sleep, interrupted by a screaming child.
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