Terry at an Irish fire station:
Our last day in the Republic, we explored some more rugged scenery. We found some cliffs at Carrick that were an enjoyable climb, and had some terrific views of the Atlantic.
We skirted north through the villages of Dunkineely, Ardara and Glenties, famed for their cottage industries and the production of Donegal tweed.
Toby jugs at Nancy's pub...
The transition to Northern Ireland wasn't marked in any obvious way, we just noticed that the petrol signs suddenly switched from € to £. Then here we were, at Londonderry (as known by unionists) or Derry (as known by nationalists). After dropping off the car at our hotel, we set out on foot to explore the city walls.
The city has long been a focal point for important events in Irish history, including the 1688-1689 siege of Derry and Bloody Sunday on 30 January 1972.
Londonderry was the first ever planned city in Ireland, begun in 1613, with the walls completed in 1618. These have survived well, and the modern city preserves the 17th century layout of four main streets radiating from the Diamond to four gateways - Bishop's Gate, Ferryquay Gate, Shipquay Gate and Butcher's Gate.
From the info placard:
All the surviving cannon have been restored to their original glory in the last decade, including these two guns gifted by the Merchant Taylors' Company of London in 1642. Craftsmen cleared the barrels of centuries of rubbish inclduing parts of a clay pipe, a George III penny, an American cent, a pocket watch, three glass marbles and the bones of a small rodent. Roaring Meg was relieved of 'litres of malodorous soup' which had accumulated in her bore. Stripped of layers of paint and corrosion, the cannon were bathed, sponged and accurately mounted on field carriages of a mid-17th century design.
Statue by Antony Gormley, depicting a hollow man with two sides (Catholic/Protestant). The hollow interior symbolises their shared beliefs, and one can look through the eyes from either side to see the other's point of view.
Free Derry was a self-declared autonomous nationalist area of Derry, between 1969 and 1972. Residents of the area built barricades and carried firearms to prevent the armed police forces, the Royal Ulster Constabulary and the Ulster Special Constabulary, and later the British Army from operating in the area. Both the Official IRA and the Provisional IRA were recognised by the residents and were active in the area.
The name "Free Derry" was taken from a sign painted on a gable wall on the corner of Lecky Road and Fahan Street in January 1969 which read: “You are now entering Free Derry" (that corner subsequently became known as "Free Derry Corner").
There a series of murals depicting the residents' struggle for emancipation...
The Bloody Sunday memorial, memoralising those who were killed when British forces opened fire on the crowd at a Gaelic football match in Croke Park, in north Dublin, 21 November 1920.
The devices on Derry's arms are a skeleton and a three-towered castle on a black field, with the chief or top third of the shield depicting the arms of the City of London: a red cross and sword on white. In the centre of the cross is a gold harp. The most popular theory about the skeleton is that it is that of a Norman De Burca knight who was starved to death in the castle dungeons in 1332. Another explanation put forward was that it depicted Cahir O'Doherty (aka Sir Charles O'Dogherty), who was put to death after the Derry was invested by the English army in 1608. During the days of Gerrymandering and discrimination against the Catholic population of Derry, Derry's Roman Catholics often used to claim in dark wit that the skeleton was 'a Catholic waiting on the Council housing list'.
Watched the Ireland v Georgia game at a Wetherspoons. Damn good attempt by the Georgians which almost paid off!
Anna and I did a waterlogged trip down the Giant’s Causeway, home to the legendary giant Finn McCool. This was a very dramatic geological formation, with interlocking hexagonal basalt columns. These almost appear like manmade flagstones from above. Very interesting, but practically having to swim around the site took the edge off our excitement. No doubt an awesome spot on a good day :)
Continued along the Causeway Coastal Route through Ballycastle to the infamous Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. It's a nice little walk with some great views, but at first glance, the rope bridge does beg the question - what for? Afterall, it only connects to a small little island. Apparently this is because the island sits atop of the migration route for salmon returning from the north Atlantic. Fishermen still use a Scottish bag net system to snare them at this point.
Finally struck through the Glens of Antrim through Cushendall and Carnlough towards Belfast, the capital city of Northern Ireland. Did a quick reccy of the murals, walked a little in the city centre, and left for the airport.
